c.1972 Guild F-112 Mini-Jumbo 12-String Guitar

This is a beautiful Guild F-112 with a natural-finished top. Except for two repaired, tiny little hairlines at the soundhole ring, this guitar is otherwise crack-free and has gorgeous (lightly weather-checked here and there) glossy finish throughout. I picked this up in a trade and while it played near-perfectly right from the swap, a light setup and adjustments here and there (nut & saddle and new ebony bridge pins & end pin) brought out its full potential as a super-easy to play 12 string with lush, full tone.

The interesting bit, though? This shipped as a lefty and was at some point altered into a "righty" with recompensated saddle. Whoever did the work did a good job and even installed right-hand side dots on the neck. Unfortunately, though, the original pickguard is on the wrong side! I have a 2nd (right hand) pickguard on order but haven't decided on it, yet.

So, basically...? A kick-butt 12-string, all in a comfortably-sized package. This plays effortlessly with 1/16" action at the 12th. Superb!

This guitar has a "mini jumbo" body with a deep dread-depth body and dreadnought-width lower bout (15 3/8" I think?) but a jumbo or 000-size waist and upper bout, which makes it have the good volume and lingering sustain and strength of a dreadnought but the comfort factor of a smaller guitar.

It's also got a long scale which gives typical extra light (47w-10) 12-string sets nice tension, even at reduced tunings (DADGAD or similar).

Nice "long" headstock. Original tuners work perfect and are pitch-stable. The truss rod cover is large because this fella boasts two adjustable rods, both working nicely. Rosewood headstock veneer.

Non-dot rosewood fretboard with a light radius lends an almost classical, Spartan look to the instrument. I like. The frets are in super shape.

Good rosewood bridge. Synthetic saddle of some sort. New ebony bridge pins. The bridge itself has a small lift on the back of it but it's nothing to worry about for the next decade or so. In addition to slightly adjusting the saddle, I also cut the string-ramp grooves a little longer and deeper to give better back-angle on the saddle. A lot of 12-string bridges aren't designed this way and it saps volume somewhat.

The finish on the top has aged-in to that pretty medium-yellowed look. I love it when guitars get like this.

The back is also in great shape though it has the usual few scuffs and small scratches from clothing.

Tuners work great! Serial places this at 1972.

Nice semi-sunburst effect on the neck! Note the strap-button -- there was an ill-fitting gold one on here before, but I installed this nickel one to match the hardware. The neck is a one-piece mahogany job.

The end pin is a new ebony one from my parts bin, to match the bridge pins.

Oh, and before I forget -- this is all solid woods -- spruce over mahogany.

 Here's the "lefty" label.

This comes with its original, blue-lined, good-condition Guild-labeled hard case. It's an archtop case which means there are very few crushing worries.


Anonymous said...

I hate it when people convert left-handed guitars to right-handed. There are enough right-handed instruments out there without reducing the tiny pool of lefties even further.

Antebellum Instruments said...

I share the same opinion, but at least it wasn't a hack-job conversion.

Claude Galinsky said...

I have one of these F-112s. Plays great and sounds wonderful. But it keeps breaking the high G string, which is, I believe, an .008

Antebellum Instruments said...

Claude: Make sure your nut slot doesn't have any burrs in it and also check the saddle for a sharp edge as well. That's usually the culprit, unless you're really banging the string hard or retuning it up and down constantly, in which case that's normal for thinner gauges. Note that you can swap out an 8 for the high G for a 9 or even 10.

leftyluckylee said...

So this is basically a left handed Guild that is now a right handed Guild. I am in the market for a Left handed Guild that plays left handed.